Credit: Hermès
Founded in 1837 to provide harnesses for noble horses, it has made leather processing its distinctive symbol, passing down extremely precise manual techniques from one generation of craftsmen to the next. Today, as then, every Hermès bag is a tribute to the raw material, leather, an essential starting point for every creation process. Among the many varieties selected, there are five that best embody the maison's distinctive savoir-faire.
TOGO LEATHER
Its distinctive feature is the balance between softness and solidity. Introduced in the early 2000s, it is now one of the maison's most used and loved leathers. It is full-grain calfskin, with a medium-marked natural grain, which gives it a soft but also decisive appearance. It is never rigid to the touch and structurally maintains its shape even with frequent use, making it ideal for large sizes and for bags such as the Birkin.
EPSOM LEATHER
It is instead a printed calfskin, that is, it has undergone an embossing or hot stamping process, with a fine and homogeneous grain. It is stiffer and lighter than Togo, and this makes it perfect for bags with a precise and defined construction. The smooth and compact surface has a matte finish, which holds up very well even the brightest colors, enhancing the precision of the cut and stitching.
BOX CALF LEATHER
Perhaps the most historic of Hermès leathers, it is a calfskin with a very fine grain, almost invisible, with a smooth and shiny surface. It is treated with a manual polishing that gives it a uniform and deep shine. Its beauty lies in the patina that it develops over time, a distinctive sign of high-lineage materials. It is used above all for iconic bags such as the Kelly.
CHÈVRE MYSORE LEATHER
Made from goatskin, it is one of the most functional leathers. It is very light, resistant and flexible, with a finely pronounced natural grain. Its strong point is its incredible durability, for these reasons it is often used in the interiors of Hermès bags and accessories, but also in the most delicate structural details, such as the “glass windows” in the Faubourg editions of the Birkin. Aesthetically, it offers a luminous visual effect, especially in bright colors.
EXOTIC LEATHER
It represents the absolute pinnacle of Hermès leather goods. Among the most recognizable are that of the Mississippiensis Alligator, the Porosus Crocodile and the Niloticus Crocodile, each with different characteristics and all coming from CITES-certified farms (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), respecting the traceability and conservation of the species. Each of these is worked manually at every stage: from the selection of the ventral area (the most valuable), to the finishing, carried out with an agate stone polishing technique that restores shine, or instead with wool felts, with a silky effect to the touch, for a matte effect. Working with alligator requires highly complex craftsmanship: each seam is calibrated to the millimeter, and this type of leather is reserved for collectible or limited edition bags.
