Credit: Industrie Pellami
We’ve seen them oversized on the denim aprons by Miu Miu, all over the suede jackets by Etro, and even shaped like stars on the derby shoes by Noir Kei Ninomiya. Studs are among the latest major trends, but they also represent a signature element that some brands have incorporated into their DNA.
One of these is Valentino. The iconic Rockstuds recently reappeared in the trailer for The Devil Wears Prada 2, while Alessandro Michele made them the protagonists in oversized form on the Nellcôte bag, reshaping their character through new proportions and scale.
While we are used to seeing them mainly on leather and denim, the application of studs is actually far more varied. We discussed this with Italiana Accessori, a company specializing in decorations for apparel, footwear, and leather goods.
Depending on the type of material, there are two main macro-categories of studs: heat-transfer studs and metal hardware. The former are transfers—polyester or aluminum elements equipped with adhesive. Once the design has been defined, they are pressed at a temperature of around 170 degrees Celsius. This allows them to be applied to lightweight fabrics or suede leather, although the shapes must be flat to ensure proper adhesion. Otherwise, reverse-side application is required.
Metal hardware, on the other hand, consists of rivets or prong-set studs made from materials such as brass, zamak, or ABS, and they require a small nail or pin for fastening. This type also allows for three-dimensional and protruding shapes, such as pointed spikes, but the application is more impactful. For this reason, structured and durable materials are needed, tested in advance to calibrate every variable—such as finishing and reinforcement—so as to ensure a balance between aesthetic impact and technical performance.
