Credit: YKK
Van Cleef & Arpels relaunches the Zip necklace, a jewel that reproduces the structure of a zipper. Not just a simple necklace, but an engineering masterpiece that in 1950 required almost ten years of technical development. This is because, in addition to replicating the filigree structure of a zipper with extreme precision, the jewel moves like a real zip fastening and can transform into a bracelet once closed.
From a simple functional element, the zipper becomes a stylistic signature thanks to its modern construction, eventually taking on a leading role in conceptual fashion. Martin Margiela created a vest entirely composed of zippers for the Artisanal Fall/Winter 2005 collection, while Kei Kagami built his own engineering research around them, applying it to both garments and accessories. A long-time collaborator with YKK, the leading company in zipper production, we interviewed them to understand the new frontiers in this field.
Today aesthetics and performance are increasingly intertwined: zippers are thin, almost invisible, capable of adapting to different styles but also to more complex constructions. One example is the development of curved zippers, designed to follow more experimental design shapes. Added to this is the issue of sustainability: the challenge is to maintain the same aesthetic and functional performance while using more circular materials and production processes.
According to YKK, the zippers of the future will be tape-less. In addition to a more minimal aesthetic, this solution would also simplify production. Current technology does not yet guarantee the necessary durability or sustainable costs for mass production, but it is not hard to imagine a future in which the elements of a zipper could be 3D-printed directly onto the fabric of a jacket.
