New York, London, Milan, Paris: today marks the end of fashion month, four weeks during which the leading luxury players announce their plans for the next six months and their medium- and long-term vision. And while for some it may have seemed like a season stylistically underwhelming, the truth is that, especially with Paris, the Fall/Winter 2026 shows clearly demonstrated the direction the industry is heading.
But how can fashion shows serve as a key tool for the supply chain? What does this fashion month mean for Made in Italy companies?
Analyzing the season’s most significant shows, one can first notice a stylistic split: on one side, there is the sexy trend made explicit by Demna with Gucci, which also includes brands such as Balenciaga, Tom Ford, Givenchy, and Saint Laurent, among others.
Credit: Saint Laurent
On the other hand, there is the more dreamlike and transformative universe of designers like Blazy and Anderson, who at Chanel and Dior respectively present wardrobes that express the many facets of our personality (and of our day). In the words of Gabrielle Chanel: «Fashion is caterpillar and butterfly: we need clothes to crawl and clothes to fly.»
Credit: Chanel
While there is a significant stylistic difference, for the supply chain both trends represent a definitive confirmation of the end of quiet luxury and a return to maximalism, giving full space to craftsmanship and innovation.
Decorations are once again central: embroidery and rhinestones dominate not only clothing but also accessories. Gucci’s logo-covered belt bag is entirely encrusted with transparent rhinestones, while Chanel and Dior bags are adorned with metal applications or embroidered with organza decorations. The garments convey a desire to impress through special techniques, often borrowed from artisanal traditions, such as ribbing, crochet, and lace, which is a major highlight of the season.
Credit: Gucci
For embroidery workshops, companies specializing in decorative applications, and those producing machinery for these sectors, the key takeaway is the brands’ desire to revisit Italian classics in a modern way (i.e., machine-recreating what was once done by hand) and to push boundaries in terms of extensions and surfaces.
This is because the search for alternative materials is increasingly focused on performance, influenced by high-level sportswear. Experimentation is also turning towards “humble” materials like plastic or vinyl, which are functional but also create a wow effect, as seen in Loewe’s rubber dresses or Bottega Veneta’s fiberglass faux furs.
Credit: Loewe
Knitwear is increasingly establishing itself as an area of major interest for brands, which are experimenting with materials ranging from leather thread to plastics and even metal. Beyond runway experimentation, knitwear is increasingly in demand, and the fusion between this world and machine embroidery is becoming ever more feasible.
Credit: Alexander McQueen
Quoting the title of the piece in which Tim Blanks analyzes the Paris shows for BoF: “Man Meets Machine, Craft Meets Computer.” This is a historic moment in which AI and machinery can revolutionize craftsmanship, which can no longer rely solely on manual skills but must be guided by human creativity and experience to be credible and emotionally impactful. It is a union with the potential to pull fashion out of the stagnation it has been in for years, and to make the supply chain flourish again, making it an active part of the change.
