The debut of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta marked a key moment in the brand’s recent history, not only for her creative direction, but also for introducing an unprecedented material to the runway: fiberglass.
Credit: Bottega Veneta
The search for alternative materials began in the 1960s with futurist designers like Paco Rabanne, Courrèges, and Pierre Cardin, who experimented with aluminum discs, Rhodoid, rigid plastics, and industrial foams. In the 1980s and 1990s, brands explored textures and volumes, using fibers like Prada’s nylon and Helmut Lang’s kevlar, inspired by bulletproof vests.
In recent years, experimentation has focused on environmental sustainability, with plant-based alternatives to animal materials. One example is FEVVER by Stella McCartney, showcased in the Spring Summer 2026 show, replicating the look and feel of feathers using bio-based and vegan materials.
Credit: Stella McCartney
“The future of materials is green,” says Sara Salerno, an expert in product development. Suppliers are working on bio-based products and sustainable alternatives. Innovations include ultra-thin wood, cotton-backed materials, and processed cork, used in bags and shoes to mimic leather. Innovation also involves production processes. In its “Accademia” line, Industria Italiana Filati introduced PVA, a water-soluble and sustainable fiber, replacing polyester. It biodegrades during washing, leaving only wool and sequins.
Credit: Industria Italiana Filati
Yarn innovation is also moving toward wellness. Cosmetotextiles release active ingredients like proteins, collagen, and probiotics, creating wearable skincare. An example is “C+ Carewear” by Coperni.
Credit: Coperni
In modern luxury, materials are no longer just aesthetic choices, but also technical and strategic decisions. From fiberglass to biomaterials and cosmetotextiles, innovation now focuses on how garments are made, how they function, and how long they last.
