The second collection by Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta certainly did not disappoint when it comes to weaving: the designer went beyond the classic woven leather to experiment with other types and materials. Yet one technique captured the audience’s attention: pleating applied to a series of leather and fabric garments.
Credit: Bottega Veneta
This technique is not exactly new to industry insiders, but the Fall/Winter 2026 runways seem to have brought it back into the spotlight thanks to a more creative and dramatic use, especially in clothing.
Credit: Cult Gaia
“It’s a technique that lends itself to creating very unusual effects because it moves the surface in a three-dimensional way,” says Filippo Orefice of Piegavelox, a Tuscan company specializing in embroidery and pleating on fabric and leather.
“With leather in particular, which is a living material in constant transformation, you can create countless types of patterns, even by combining different ones together.”
Credit: Piegavelox
From stripes to waves, from knife pleats to sunray (soleil) and herringbone, including all their variations and effects derived from mixing different techniques, the results stem from continuous experimentation and the expertise of the pleater.
This process is done by machine and uses heat, but understanding the material is essential to determine settings and feasibility. Fabric must contain at least a small percentage of polyester to hold the pleat.
Credit: Bottega Veneta
As for leather, depending on its thickness, it can generally be processed, but the treatment affects the procedure: “If we are dealing with a laminated material, it will become matte due to heat, so multiple tests are needed to achieve the desired effect.”
