These days the F/W 2024/25 edition of Premiére Vision Paris (July 4th - 6th at the Paris Nord Villepinte Parc d'Expositions) kicks off in Paris. An edition completely redesigned according to the canons of eco-responsibility that now characterize the fashion industry and beyond. Desolina Suter, Fashion Director of the event, guided us inside the new trends especially in the field of leather where research and creativity come together for an increasingly environmentally sustainable manufacturing.
Miss Suter, how does the leather industry approach the environmental issue?
"This industry is definitely in a phase of transformation in order to meet new market challenges. The issues in which leather operators are engaged on the environmental issue are mainly traceability, saving energy resources and reducing the chemical impact of processing. Tracking leather involves knowing and sharing information about the entire processing chain of the material. From raw material to finishing and finishing. The crucial point today is to obtain verified information on the origin of the raw hide to identify the regulations to which the producing country is bound, on two levels: reproductive patterns and industrial processes that authenticate animal welfare, the fight against deforestation."
In what other ways does leather become a virtuous material from an environmental perspective?
"First of all, leather has a unique value: it is "affective material" in its own right, stimulating the emotional sphere of attachment and transmission over time. From this perspective, therefore, the focus is on enhancing the inherent durability of the material, which is solid, repairable and has high potential for development. Leather is a natural, living, irregular material: in its simplest form it is a luxurious material, so at the moment lighter processing that covers much less of the characteristics of the leather itself is preferred."
What are the eco innovations in the tanning industry?
"The use of low-impact tanning agents as an alternative to mineral tanning, and a concrete overhaul of tanning processes are the real palpable innovations in the industry. Tanners' product ranges are increasingly being enriched with chrome-free proposals that achieve the same properties as chrome tanning and synthetic tanning products made from bio-based vegetable waste from the food industry. The new generation vegetable-tanned leathers are softer and are much better at dyeing where bright and intense colors are obtained."
Instead, about the development of leather finishes?
"Here again, the compass is the search for naturalness. Textures with natural grains are very present this season such as the curled ones emblematic of goat or deer skin and so on. New low-impact finishes are therefore sought, such as vegetable waxes and solvent-free lacquers for sophisticated natural effects like patina or two-tone. Also, as we had announced, there is a return to a more constructed elegance with more solid leathers to create structured leather goods: combined with elegant glossy and iridescent effects, never excessive, reminiscent of the luster and behavior of couture fabrics. These are always light water-based, solvent-free lacquer finishes to maintain the naturalness of the leather."
In this scenario, Miss Suter, what is the role of mechanical finishes and colors?
"Mechanical finishes offer new decorative techniques, such as high-precision perforation, 3D laser cutting and mix print + embossing that open up exceptional narrative scenarios. This creates trompe l'oeil skins that simulate textile textures such as denim, corduroy but also more sophisticated fabrics such as lace and ornamental jacquards. As well as neo-camouflage style decorations and reptile skins or animalier designs up to shearlings that play with special effects to look like fur with airy, puffy fur.
As for colors, placed metallic effects are favored that leave the grain of the skin visible but recreate the moving sunlight reflections symptomatic of the season. These effects include warm solar shades, light gold and platinum to affirm a more chic and minimalist spirit."
