Mad with joy. Cheerfulness, irreverence and originality are the key words that encapsulate the essence of Moschino's AW 2024/2025 collection, the first signed by its new creative director. Indeed, a "Zero Collection," as he himself called it. For his debut, which took place during Milan Fashion Week FW24/25, Adrian Appiolaza chose to pay homage to the maison and its founder Franco Moschino. A tribute to its tradition of excellence and irony.
With its ironic and iconic contribution, Franco Moschino's universe is the inspiration, the fuse that ignites the revisiting of archival clothes. Cult items are not repurposed as they were, but brought to a new youth by Adrian Appiolaza. The proportions are reinvented and the execution is reinterpreted; however, the energy remains the original. The confrontation with the archive is an animated dialogue: a collection emerges based on tailoring and craftsmanship, but also on gestures and basic ideology.
Peace, love, smiles, and Italian flags: the universal messages of peace and love that Franco Moschino used to send are reiterated to a new generation with the same impact as before. Tailoring dominates over everything, but always with a certain subversion: the strict trench coat worn to go shopping at the market, the looks completed by baguette or rosette-shaped clutch bags, the masculine pants covered by red flounced skirts, the vests that turn into guepiers, the fabrics of the ties that turn into tops.
Everything Moschino minute by minute, with the lettering and the question mark, symbol of the brand, returning on a beautiful mohair dress. Right down to the red leather bags in the shape of a heart, another icon. Subverted, shaped, the codes of the Maison are tested to become something else, without ever losing their vigor. Franco Moschino's vocabulary passes into the hands of Adrian Appiolaza who is ready to decline it in a new chapter. Faithful to the original, but also to himself.
