Leather is again the protagonist in Miu Miu's Spring Summer 2025 collection, a material we find in both accessories-bags, shoes, and small leather goods-and clothing. Here are three particular workmanships that we observed closely at the re-see and analyzed with Desirée Calamai of Air Collection and Martina Baldisserotto of Conceria Quadrifoglio.
Embroidered leather
For Miu Miu, customization of garments is achieved through craftsmanship. In particular, the collection features two leather jackets embellished with rhinestones and bezel stones, embroidered by hand. The embroidery process is carried out by following the pattern paper directly onto the individual pieces before final assembly. This painstaking work makes each garment unique and instantly recognizable.
(Faux) pleats on leather
Among the most unexpected workmanships certainly rank leather pleated skirts. In this case, the pleats are actually panels joined together with a hidden seam under the pleat and reinforced at the top, near the waistband, to ensure a perfect and durable shape. The skirts were presented in both wrap-around and back-closure versions.
Varnished effect
With a decidedly more retro style, these leather garments with a varnished effect were made on a split base, i.e., the innermost part of the leather, which is taken from the unfinished side. This is followed by tumbling, through a machine that moves the leather so as to soften it and give it a slightly “lived-in” texture. Finally, the leather is treated with a layer of varnish or resin, which gives it a smooth, shiny appearance.
