"This season a mood of minimalist excellence paves the way for bold and direct proposals, visual aspects and technical qualities that reflect a virtuoso savoir-faire," says Carine Montarras, Product Manager of the Fashion Dept. of PV Paris. "The theme of luxurious minimalism is conveyed by the return to a mirrored leather, rather rigid, but in a lighter and more flexible version, to make this season's bags: hobos, tote bags that place the material at the center of product creation with an approach toward eco-design. We will have larger, structured but soft and malleable bags."
The title of Première Vision's F/W season theme is EXTREMES: the collections for fall-winter 25-26 are a tale of two extremes. On the one hand the need for sobriety and discretion, on the other the desire for a certain creative extravagance. A dichotomy that oscillates between the desire for simplification and a strong drive toward radical expressions that take opulence to the extreme.
A mood that can be found in the products on display at PV Paris: "The season focuses on the search for the perfect balance between opulent density and malleable lightness," Ms. Montarras further explains, "Bags with soft, supple handles with a bouncy feel: nubuck-grained leathers with spongy handles, sturdy buffalo-like leathers and thick cowhides are softened by velvety, matte cosmetic finishes.
Another trend emerging from the PV Paris booths is the development of leathers for apparel: dual-tone glossy effects, iridescent metallic effects, fine and vibrant patent leather finishes (micro-crepe, creased...) inspired by make-up. In general, one notices the search for a "textile" behavior of leathers that have a silky, soft and fluid hand.
"An example of this trend are the very fine lambskins and calfskins, intended for clothing, leather goods and footwear, used to create flowing draperies and knotted effects, bringing luxury draping to the everyday wardrobe," says Ms. Montarras. "Another a highlight of the season are fur and furs. From a tactile and sensory point of view, people are looking for a product with a velvety hand, plush and soft lamb and sheep skins processed like real fur."
Not just fashion, tanneries participating in PV Paris follow the north star of eco-design as per EU standards: "The leather industry at the moment seems less focused on developing alternative tanning methods to chrome tanning while it is more focused on optimizing existing treatments to save energy and natural resources and reduce the chemical impact of production," concludes Carine Montarras. "Traceability is the other key point: it goes beyond the slaughterhouse stage. It is now necessary to trace back to the farm to ensure that farming conditions are appropriate and that there are no links to deforestation. Breeding and rearing models with a positive impact are favored, as are approaches that preserve biodiversity. Finally, the circularity of processes manifested through the increasing use of vegetable tanning, now also used to produce hides for clothing. Our tanners use both tannins derived from the reuse of by-products of the agribusiness industry but synthetic tanning based on polymers from renewable resources is also gaining ground.
