Credit: Miu Miu
Chanel has made it an unmistakable signature, while Gucci and Dolce&Gabbana have been repurposing it in every collection for years. If there is one must-have workmanship for luxury fashion houses, it is definitely matelassé. But what exactly is it and how is it made?
When people talk about matelassé on leather, they are referring to a technique that gives the material a three-dimensional effect. It is quilting in which the stitching, following a predetermined pattern, creates a relief given by the tension of the thread in contrast to the smooth surface of the leather. To enhance volume, particularly in leather goods, a layer of padding, usually wadding or foam rubber, is inserted to add depth and act as an insulating barrier.
There are many variations of them, depending on the design the brand decides to make on the accessory. Here are 3 types scouted in the winter 2024 accessories.
Horizontal matelassé
Among the most interesting proposals, Ferragamo's horizontal metalassé definitely stands out: the shaped quilting is arranged longitudinally on the panels and is inspired by the lines of the famous Rainbow shoe , designed by Salvatore Ferragamo for Judy Garland in 1938. This special workmanship has been featured on several models, including the Bowling Bag and several shoulder bags.
Matelassé on fine leather
Another example of craftsmanship comes from Miu Miu, which for the new season combines its iconic matelassé diamond pattern with fine Ayers leather for the Wander hobo model. In this case, the natural texture of the leather helps enhance the three-dimensionality of the workmanship, making the bag instantly recognizable yet dynamic.
Matelassé Mix
Matelassé is a versatile technique that allows a wide variety of designs to be created. Saint Laurent takes full advantage of this quality in the Envelope model, combining three different quilting patterns: vertical, chevron and check stitching, all in one. Made of soft lambskin leather, the bag stands out for its geometricity and elegant lines.
